Sometimes I have a new style in my hands within a single day
At Amsterdam-based fashion company Helena Hart, collections are designed and produced entirely in-house, with every step of the process developed under one roof. At the heart of this process is pattern maker Adriënne van den Hove. With more than forty years of experience, she brings rare expertise to a brand that consciously chooses local production, transparency, and craftsmanship as its foundation. FashionUnited spoke with her about how she continues to safeguard the perfect fit of every collection.
Forty years of craftsmanship
Van den Hove grew up surrounded by craftsmanship: her mother was a pattern maker, and from an early age she became familiar with fabrics, needles, and thread. After graduating from fashion school, she started her career in the clothing industry, where she built more than forty years of expertise working for renowned Dutch fashion brands. More than two years ago, she joined Helena Hart.
In an industry where pattern making is increasingly digital and often carried out remotely, Van den Hove represents a rare specialization. She sees that the craft is becoming less common in the Netherlands: many fashion brands outsource this work, with digital size charts increasingly replacing traditional craftsmanship. This knowledge, built up over decades, is exactly what Helena Hart consciously chooses to keep in-house.
The dynamics of a family business
Helena Hart has been a family-owned company for forty years. Van den Hove, who previously worked mainly within corporate structures, values this environment. “We are a small team, which means we can often switch quickly and communicate directly. Before, decisions would go through several departments. Here, the lines are extremely short. There is an immediate understanding between everyone.”
She works closely with the in-house designer, together translating an initial sketch into a finished garment. “We work very closely together. There is a sewing machine here, so when we have an idea, we can immediately cut a piece of fabric and create a sample on the spot. You instantly understand what someone means when you can discuss and develop an idea together with just one person.”
This openness also extends to customers. Helena Hart deliberately makes the production process transparent and visible. “Customers know that we manage this entire process in-house,” says Van den Hove. Visitors to the showroom are taken into the workspace, where they can see how the collection is created.
From first sketch to final pattern
Van den Hove explains that the development process starts with either an existing base pattern or a completely new, hand-drawn design. After further developing the pattern in the CAD/CAM system and determining the fabric width, it goes directly to the cutter and one of Helena Hart’s Amsterdam-based production partners. These ateliers have been working closely with Helena Hart for decades. This local collaboration creates a noticeable difference in speed. “Because of the quick communication and local production, I sometimes have a new style in my hands within a single day,” says Van den Hove.
Thanks to their long-standing partnerships, both parties often only need a few words to understand each other. Van den Hove communicates directly with the atelier: “We don’t need to create extensive technical drawings.” If anything needs clarification during the process, she can adjust immediately, even when production has already started.
She notices the difference compared to producing overseas on a daily basis. “When production is far away, you have to explain everything down to the smallest detail on paper. Now, I can simply drive there.” She summarizes the collaboration herself: “Creating a garment together from start to finish — with a small team and local production. From the first pattern to the final product.”
Fit as a daily craft
The quality of the fit is central to Helena Hart. Van den Hove works from a standard base size and personally checks the larger sizes as well. Almost every day, fitting sessions take place where models come in and garments are immediately tested. “Sometimes a fabric falls differently than expected or feels less comfortable than anticipated. That is what I work on every day: how can we improve it and how can we enhance the way the fabric moves through the pattern?”
The combination of stretch fabrics and expertly cut patterns is key. A size chart or digital guideline alone is not enough; true craftsmanship is required. “Pattern making with the right shapes and proportions is a profession in itself,” says Van den Hove. She emphasizes that she continues to learn herself: “I even look back at patterns I created thirty years ago. Over the years, you discover that a pattern can be approached in different ways.”
Comfort in fit and care
If there is one garment that represents forty years of Helena Hart’s brand DNA and modern craftsmanship for Van den Hove, it is the recently launched oversized blazer. She created the pattern entirely from scratch. “With that blazer, everything comes together. You take it from the hanger, put it on, and you can walk straight out wearing it.” It represents exactly the comfort Helena Hart stands for. For Van den Hove, comfort is not only about how a garment feels to wear, but also about the ease that comes with owning it. “You wash it, hang it up, and the next day you can wear it again. That practical convenience is truly part of Helena Hart’s definition of comfort.”
By staying true to its philosophy of local production and conscious, controlled growth, the family-owned company has demonstrated for forty years how powerful Dutch craftsmanship can be. It is a way of working that Van den Hove fully identifies with: “I am incredibly proud that I get to work here and share my knowledge with the team.”
www.helenahart.nl
